Wigs and toppers can be made of either human hair or synthetic hair and there's a big difference between the two in terms of cost, care, and longevity. Understanding the pros and cons of each can help you choose which one fits your lifestyle.
Human Hair
The luxurious option
Cost: Human hair (HH) wigs cost more compared to synthetic hair. Expect to spend at least a few hundred dollars on a HH wig, and closer to $1,500 for the higher quality ones. Custom wigs may cost several thousand dollars.
Feel: HH often feels softer and silkier than its synthetic counterpart and you can run your fingers through it more easily. It tangles less (assuming it's Remy human hair, with the hair cuticle going in the same direction), and even when it does get tangled it is easier to brush out. The texture will vary depending on hair origin, but it generally looks and feels more natural.
Density: Human hair wigs have a density grading from about 70% for an extra light/thin piece to 250% for extra thick hair. When you're starting out, aim for 120-130% density which will give you natural coverage, look, and feel.
Source: Chinese hair is considered lower quality because it tends to dry frizzy and is more difficult to style, so it usually costs less. Brazilian and Mongolian hair are nicer quality and hold their styled shape very well. European hair is considered top of the line, but it's in short supply, so it will cost the most.
Color: Unless you get virgin (unprocessed) hair, the wig will have been processed and colored by the time it gets to you. Color can fade over time and with washing, especially with very bright or saturated colors.
Care: This is real hair, so you can use real hair products, as long as it is salon quality and sulfate free., and best if it’s also moisture replenishing and color safe. It will need more of your attention after washing (or getting caught in the rain) compared to synthetic wigs. Some HH wigs dry nicely as straight or wavy wigs, but most need some help with styling or smoothing once dry, so expect to spend some time styling after each wash. How well it holds the style between washings depends on the hair origin, but most will hold the style reasonably well, only needing some touch-ups here and there. Plan on washing your HH wig every 2-4 weeks.
Heat: HH wigs can be heat styled just like your bio hair, but most manufacturers recommend a max temperature of 300-350 degrees, and sticking to lower temperatures will reduce damage. Always use a heat protectant before heat styling.
Lifespan: The lifespan of a HH wig is generally considered about a year, but some human hair wigs will last 2 or 3 years if cared for properly. If you don’t wear it daily, it can last even longer, but will need some love from you about once a month to apply a hydrating product to keep it from drying out.
Synthetic Hair
The low maintenance option
Cost: Synthetic wigs tend to be less expensive than HH wigs. Expect to spend $100-$400 on a synthetic wig, although it is possible to find a good one for under $100. Cap features are often the main determinant of high vs low cost synthetic wigs - basic caps will cost less and premium features like a lace from or hand tied cap will increase the cost.
Feel: Synthetic wigs are often smooth and flowy when new, but tend to get rough or brittle faster than HH wigs, even when cared for properly. Once some of the hair starts to “go” it can lead to more tangling, which leads to mare damage, so it might be helpful to trim any damaged ends or areas if you catch them early.
Permatease: Synthetic wigs may be made with or without “permatease,” which is the purposeful use of short kinky hair fibers near the cap that help disguise the cap and also give the hair some volume. When done well (either made well or styled well) permatease can really help make the hair look more natural, but can also make it look more “wiggy” or fake when not done well. Wigs with permatease usually need some help “waking up the permatease” straight out of the bag or box to help bring the regular hair fibers over top of it.
Color: These fibers are far less likely to fade or change color than HH, especially if stored properly out of direct sunlight. This means you can get some great bold fashion colors without the worry of fading that you would expect with human hair!
Care: You’ll need to buy hair care products that are intended for synthetic hair. Fabric softener can stand in as a conditioner. Synthetic wigs require very little work after a washing - you can usually let them dry on a wig stand, then they’re ready to wear, with no to very little additional styling necessary. As a bonus, this makes synthetic wigs great for rainy days because they won’t get frizzy or lose their style.
Length: The length of a synthetic wig will drastically change the amount of care it needs form you throughout the day. Shorter wigs won't need much more than a brush or finger comb at the end of the day. Longer wigs will need to be brushed more often, maybe even several times through the day. Use a small amount of silicone serum at the start of each wear for very long wigs, especially at the nape to reduce tangling. For synthetic wigs use a wide-tooth comb for straight and wavy styles or finger comb for curly styles. Using a regular brush will pull the strands and shorten the life of the wig.
Heat: Synthetic wigs can be further divided into regular non-heat friendly fibers, or heat friendly (also called HF, heat defiant, HD). Watch out, in some cases HF stand for “high fashion” instead of heat friendly! The heat friendly version can be heat styled and maintain that new style through washing. It’s a bit tricky to work with, though, because the immediately following contact with heat (such as a curling iron) it has to “cool set,” meaning it has to stay in that shape until it cools, then it will retain its shape. The regular, or non-heat friendly fibers cannot be restyled and will melt or become damaged with heat of almost any kind. When wearing this type of wig be mindful of your hair when opening an oven door, sitting near an outdoor heater, standing by a fire pit, or anything else that might expose the hair to hot temperatures. The exception here is that there are some hot air brushes and steamers that can be used safely to smooth out synthetic hair.
Lifespan: Synthetic wigs usually have a shorter lifespan, with about 3-6 months for a non heat-friendly wig and 2-3 months for a heat-friendly wig.* If you don’t wear it daily it can last much longer and won’t need much care from you (assuming it’s stored properly) between use.
